From modern art to historic architecture, Clarksville, Tennessee, oozes with small-town charm
A new direct flight to Nashville from GSP means lesser-known parts of Tennessee are just a quick hop away. Straddling the Tennessee-Kentucky line just 45 minutes from Nashville, Clarksville is a river town that traces its roots back to 1785.
The Cumberland River feels ever present as it winds past the city and converges with the Red River. Downtown, streets are replete with nineteenth-century three-story brick buildings, many of them reconstructed after a devastating tornado whipped through Clarksville in 1999. Take time to appreciate the river views by strolling along the Cumberland Riverwalk in McGregor Park. Also in the park, the As the River Flows Museum displays a succinct history of the ancient Mississippian people, considered forbears to the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Catawaba.
Clarksville is a place for satisfying meals, friendly folks, and rich history. So much occurred here, in fact, that you could focus on the numerous museums, cultural centers, and historic parks without ever coming up for air.
Dive into Clarksville’s Past
History buffs will want to spend time exploring Fort Defiance Civil War Park. During Union occupation it became an enlistment site for the US Colored Troops. Man-made earthworks and powder magazines still exist on the grounds.
An extraordinary example of saving historic homes by moving them to a protected site, the 40-acre pioneer settlement Historic Collinsville encompasses 18 buildings dating from an 1830s cabin to the 1905 Weakley House Museum. Designed by architect William Martin Aiken, the exterior of the striking Customs House Museum & Cultural Center displays influences of Stick, Queen Anne, Italianate, Romanesque, Flemish, and Gothic styles. All ages will be delighted by the running model train exhibit that takes up most of the subterranean level.
Go underground at Dunbar Cave State Park. Take a guided tour to learn the fascinating history of the prehistoric site, which bears cave paintings dating back to the fourteenth century. In more modern times, the mouth of the cave entrance created a naturally air-conditioned bandstand and dance floor.
Find Art Around Every Corner
Let’s start at Lorenzo Swinton Gallery because the young gallery owner seems like he could curate works for any residence. A painter in his own right, Swinton packs his exhibit space with significant regional artists, including work from talented sculptor (and retired Austin Peay State University art professor) Jim Diehr.
More art is available at the Downtown Artists Cooperative, where you’ll find paintings, woodwork, fiber, and more from local artists, including glasswork by Michelle Landl. It’s a great stop for a handmade gift. Next door, Artlink Studio is a fun experimental space from enterprising creative Maria Haycraft. Pop in to see what’s happening; there’s always something to buy or make at this nonprofit art studio and classroom.
Clarksville also has numerous murals worth seeking out. The Last Train to Clarksville by Ricky Cavaness commemorates The Monkees hit song and the end of passenger train travel to Clarksville in 1968. Painted by Nigerian-born artist Ola (Olasubomi Aka-Bashorun), Clarksville Starry Night sits across the street from an extraordinary church, Madison Street Methodist. The 1999 tornado toppled the twin steeples in minutes and their replacements are a sight to behold. Instead of reconstructing the steeples, the towers were reimagined in structural steel. It’s a poignant reminder of time and space.
Indulge in Specialty Shopping in Clarksville
An eatery and blending lab, Mad Herbalist is the spot for a unique lunch experience. Order scrumptious shareables like Harissa Chicken Salad Dip and design a custom home scent from a carousel of essential oils. By the time dessert is cleared, your four-ounce spray bottle will be delivered to your table.
Clarksville’s renowned German bakery, Silkes Old World Breads sits next to Warehouse 41 Vintage Market, so you can fuel a bit of antiquing with a delectable slice of apple strudel.
If vinyl is your jam, then don’t miss an opportunity to shop at AndVinyl Records. The downtown store is well organized and staffed with the type of expertise that makes specialty shopping extra enjoyable.
Drink Up
Tours at Old Glory Distillery include time in the barrel house and the tasting room. It’s fairly easy to tuck a bottle into a checked bag, and Tennessee whiskey always makes a great addition to your home bar. Oenophiles will want to visit Beachaven Vineyards & Winery, a third-generation business that produces several lovely sparklings, among many other wines.
Where to Stay and Eat
DoubleTree by Hilton Clarksville – Located right downtown, this fully renovated hotel could not be more convenient, and many rooms offer river views. 50 College St., hilton.com
Legends Smokehouse and Grill – Head here for lunch and then plan for a nap. The menu is chock-full of unique mashups of barbecue and burgers, red velvet banana pudding, and other delicious creations. 803 S. Riverside Dr., legendssmokehouseandgrill.com
The Amsterdam Local Cafe – Take a break at this stunning cafe, where seasonal hot drinks are adroitly made and local purveyors offer their wares. The well-curated selection incorporates ceramics, jewelry, jam, honey, and hand towels. 518 Madison St.
