Charlottesville wineries prove great wine can be made in the South
Less than a six-hour drive from the Upstate lies what is often called the birthplace of American wine: Charlottesville, Virginia.
Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States, was interested in wine and believed the region—known as the Monticello American Viticultural Area since 1984—could become successful. Although Jefferson had no luck growing grapes and never produced a single harvest, the area is now home to nearly 50 wineries, from small mom-and-pop shops to larger estates reminiscent of grand California wineries.
The juice started flowing in 1976 when Gianni Zonin—heir to an Italian family’s wine enterprise—acquired Barboursville, a plantation designed in 1814 by Jefferson for James Barbour, the 18th governor of Virginia. Today, Barboursville Winery, which established European viticulture in Virginia, is considered to be the grandfather of wineries in the region.
Many more have followed. Today, the region’s winemakers produce wines that are competitive with the best from California and France. And in 2023, Charlottesville was named Wine Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine.
In less time than it would take to fly to California, you can drive to Charlottesville—a neat town in its own right—and taste world-class wines. It’s the perfect getaway for any wine lover.
But with so many wineries, where do you begin? Here are five you shouldn’t miss.
Five Charlottesville Wineries
Barboursville Vineyards
No wine trip to the Charlottesville area is complete without a visit to Barboursville. My first experience with the winery was almost 30 years ago when a friend invited me to a special dinner that has become the winery’s annual truffle feast; I’ve been hooked ever since. These wines are competitive with the best.
Under the leadership of winemaker Luca Paschina, Barboursville crafts a broad range of highly regarded wines. Whites include chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier and pinot grigio; reds include cabernet sauvignon, barbera, cabernet franc, merlot and nebbiolo. Octagon, a Bordeaux-style blend based on merlot and cabernet franc, consistently wins national awards; Wine Enthusiast named the 2019 vintage one of the top 100 wines in the world.
- Taste: Taste wines in the Discovery Tasting Room, on a stroll through the grounds, or purchase a bottle for a picnic. Looking for a wine flight or a tasting accompanied by charcuterie or cheese? Reserve a spot in Library 1821.
- Dine: Palladio, next to the tasting room, is open for lunch and dinner, and features a selection of seasonal Italian dishes. Make a reservation.
- Stay: An on-site inn and cottages are perfect for a quiet, romantic getaway.
- Must-see: The Landmark Ruins, showcasing Jefferson’s architectural work, are available for a free self-guided tour.
- Find out more: bbvwine.com
Horton Vineyards
There’s something for everyone at Horton. Established in 1989 by Dennis Horton, this winery produces 63 unique labels, but the small operation remains family-run to this day. Since Dennis Horton’s passing in 2018, daughter Shannon has headed up the business aspects of the winery and vineyards.
What does Horton do differently? “We did it first,” Shannon says. “Viognier, cab franc, tannat, pinotage, malbec, petit manseng, albariño. If it wasn’t for us, it wouldn’t be here. We are still very hands-on. My mother still works the land. She’s in charge of the crew—at 78 years old.”
Her father, she says, “taught just about every winemaker in this state.”
With so many wines available for tasting and purchase, a visit to Horton can be overwhelming, so be sure to share your preferences with the tasting room host. There are lots of sweeter` wines behind the counter, but don’t let that deter you if you prefer drier wines.
“They keep the lights on,” Shannon says of the sweeter options. “But our fruit wines aren’t heavily sweet. The cranberry is tart. I use some heavy hitters in that — I have a tannat in there.”
Of the drier wines, the viognier—especially the 2019 barrel select—is among her favorites. Horton recalls when wine consultant and author Richard Leahy said her father’s 1993 viognier was the most-awarded viognier in the country.
“It still holds that record,” she says. “It put Virginia wine on the map, period. It took out the French guys.”
For her top wines, Shannon personally tries every barrel. Superior ones are set aside and bottled separately. But there are no guarantees. “Dad always called agriculture ‘legalized gambling,’” She says.
- Taste: The tasting room is open daily and offers several tasting options. Virtual tastings are also available.
- Find out more: hortonwine.com
Hark Vineyards
Hark is one of the new kids on the block, and based on a recent tasting, produces some of the finest wines in the region. The initial planting was in 2016, and included chardonnay, merlot, petit manseng, petit verdot, and cabernet franc.
“We are where California was in the late ’80s,” says winemaker A.J. Greely. “People are starting to really become aware of Virginia as a region where we grow good grapes. What’s happened is we’ve become very serious about wine.”
It’s clear Greely herself is quite serious as she shows off Hark’s super-clean and highly organized facility. Before making wine, she worked in various vineyards, giving her an understanding of “where our wine comes from.”
And wine lovers can clearly see where Hark is going if recent bottlings are any indication. All are well defined, clean ,and elegantly balanced.
A few standouts: The 2021 pinot gris, fermented in concrete and aged in stainless steel, presents a crisp minerality and beautiful balance. The 2019 chardonnay boasts clean, crisp flavors with just a hint of oak. And Hark’s petit manseng has won gold medals in the Virginia Governor’s Cup wine awards.
“I’m not a huge fan of petit manseng, but apparently I make it very well,” Greely says. “Petit manseng is a varietal that grows exceptionally well in Virginia.”
Spark, a Bordeaux blend of cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot, is especially smooth and well balanced. It pairs extremely well with a steak.
“We’re getting noticed,” Greely says. “The challenge that you’re going to see in Virginia is we don’t have the land expanse that California does.”
- Taste: A dedicated tasting room is planned; in the meantime, tastings are held in an “outpost” building as well in outdoor areas featuring picnic tables, Adirondack chairs, and fire pits.
- Find out more: harkvineyards.com
Stinson Vineyards
Stinson is a small, family-owned estate winery west of Charlottesville that specializes in French-style small-lot wines. Led by Rachel Stinson Vrooman, the winery is in what she calls a rebranding.
“For a while, we were just trying to push our name out there,” she explains. “Now we’re pulling back a little bit and moving to an estate-grown model.”
The focus now is on quality, making sure each bottle is special yet available at an accessible price point. “My goal is to be super proud of everything in our lineup,” Stinson Vrooman says.
Right now, that includes the sauvignon blanc, meritage, and tannat. The sauvignon blanc—her “baby”—spends a portion of its time in a concrete egg before being cold-fermented in stainless steel. The result is a nicely balanced wine, with clean fruit and a hint of minerality.
“That is going back to a little bit of our French method,” she says, “because historically they were fermenting in concrete.”
Other standouts: The Farmer’s Rest blanc de mourvèdre, a crisp sparkling wine; the rosé of tannat, a unique offering featuring a nice acidity and flavors of apple and watermelon; the meritage, a blend of cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot, and cabernet sauvignon that presents flavors of black currant and lavender aromatics with a hint of oak and balanced tannins; and the petit verdot, which is rich in dark fruits and fresh acidity.
“We always like the fruit,” Stinson Vrooman says of her petit verdot. “I know a lot of people here make a very different style, but we like to taste the fruit.”
- Taste: The tasting room is open Thursday–Sunday.
- Stay: The Inn at Stinson Vineyards offers four suites, all featuring views of the vineyard. Breakfast and wine are included.
- Find out more: stinsonvineyards.com
Michael Shaps Wineworks
It’s been said that tasting is believing. And, after tasting Michael Shaps wines, one thing is clear: Shaps and crew know how to make wine.
Shaps, the man, also owns a winery in Burgundy, France, where he studied to be a winemaker in the early 1990s. Many of these wines, under the Maison Shaps label, are imported to the United States and sold at the Virginia winery. While everyday wines are the focus of a downtown Charlottesville tasting room, the winery tasting room south of the city is where the upper-level wines can be sampled in a more focused, relaxing environment.
The tasting list is long, but not everything is always available. “Throughout the year, we will taste everything on this list,” says Kevin McCartney, a longtime employee of Michael Shaps Wineworks who often can be found in the tasting room. “It’s going to be a variety of Virginia and French wines. Some things are dependent on whether it’s time to release them or not.”
A unique aspect of the tasting list is the number of older vintages offered. This encourages visitors to see how wines can evolve over time. McCartney notes that while many wine drinkers talk about holding onto bottles for five or six years, few do.
“Probably 90% of clientele buying wines consumes them within a week,” he says.
McCartney said the viognier, cabernet franc, and chardonnay are all popular with customers. No matter the varietal, they share an uncanny balance that allows the fruit to be the star.
“We are a winemaking winery,” McCartney says. “The focus here is really the winemaker.”
- Taste: The tasting room is open daily.
- Find out more: virginiawineworks.com
More time for wine?
Here are four more vineyards to add to your itinerary.
Southwest Mountains Vineyards
This winery opened to the public last October. It’s a grand facility, with spacious rooms, scenic views, and an upscale presentation. The wines, many of which are made with estate-grown fruit, are excellent for such a new facility.
- Why? A rising star on the Virginia wine scene, and a gorgeous venue.
- Taste: Appointments are required. The winery is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
- Find out more: smvwines.com
Keswick Vineyards
Keswick has been around since the early 2000s and has won numerous awards for its wines, all of which are solid. Keswick recently hired a new winemaker, Tony Zawierucha, whose first vintage will be the 2023.
- Why? There’s a miniature golf course on site and lots of outdoor seating.
- Taste: The tasting room is open daily. Be sure to request a reserve tasting—a totally different level.
- Find out more: keswickvineyards.com
King Family Vineyards
King opened in 1998, nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains west of Charlottesville. The winery specializes in premium wines that highlight the terroir of the region. A variety of whites and reds, as well as rosé and sparkling wines, are offered.
- Why? A must-see facility overlooking a polo field.
- Taste: The tasting room is open daily.
- Find out more: kingfamilyvineyards.com
Lovingston Winery
Lovingston is south of Charlottesville, and an excellent stop on the way up. Wes Roberts, who with his family purchased the 20-year-old winery a few years ago, says his primary goal is to get the word out about Lovingston. “We’re here, we make great wines, and we want to share them with you,” he says.
- Why? The personal interaction with the owners.
- Taste: The tasting room is closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
- Find out more: lovingstonwinery.com
Where to stay
If you visit the Charlottesville area and are looking for a relaxing, romantic getaway, consider the options offered by Barboursville Vineyards, Stinson Vineyards, or The Farmhouse at Veritas.
Where to eat
Good wines deserve good food, and there is no shortage of dining options in the area. Remember, wineries are predominantly south, west, and east of Charlottesville, so plan your days accordingly.
Breakfast — Bodo’s Bagels: A good bagel is hard to find. And Bodo’s, which has four locations in the area, makes a great one. Bagels are made on site, and while seemingly always busy, orders are filled promptly. Options include bacon, eggs, lox, and veggie patties, bodosbagels.com
Lunch — Fardowners: Located in Crozet, this is an excellent lunch stop if you’re visiting wineries west of Charlottesville. While the fare is pretty typical—burgers, sandwiches and wings—the quality is a cut above. The Fardowners Burger, served on a pretzel bun, is juicy and delicious; the Reuben and cheesesteak are also noteworthy. fardowners.com
Dinner — Ivy Inn: This historic Charlottesville inn, established in 1973, serves upscale food in an elegant, historical environment. The menu is subject to change and offers a wide range of dinner options. The mustard and herb-crusted rack of lamb is phenomenal, as is the rockfish, trout, and slow-cooked veal shank. Knowledgeable and efficient service is the icing on the cake. Reservations recommended. ivyinnrestaurant.com
Dinner — The Farmhouse at Veritas: Four-course, wine-paired dinners are offered at 6:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday at this restaurant, located on the Veritas estate in Afton. The focus is homegrown and house-made dishes, and it’s a great way to taste a range of excellent Veritas wines. Reservations required. veritasfarmhouse.com/the-restaurant
