Demystifying the many types of sugar on your grocery’s shelf
We stir it into our coffee, favor it in fruit, crave it in candy. Sugar, whether natural (in the form of sucrose or fructose) or processed, is in nearly everything we eat.
Today 80% of the world’s processed sugar comes from sugar cane; the remainder is derived from sugar beets. After the juice is extracted from sugar cane stalks, it is boiled until it forms a dark syrup, and then crystallized. The way it is processed results in the different types of sugar you find in the grocery store.
White granulated sugar is probably the most familiar type. Its color comes from stripping out all the molasses—the dark, thick syrup that remains after the sugar is boiled and the crystals are removed. It’s your best bet for whipping up snowy meringues and creating crumbly shortbread, while less-refined cane sugar, with its slightly larger crystals, imparts a deeper caramel flavor to baked goods.
Grind granulated sugar into a fine powder, and you have powdered sugar. It’s often confused with confectioners’ sugar, which is powdered sugar with cornstarch added to prevent it from caking as it sits—making it ideal for dusting the top of baked goods. Both are favored for icings and glazes, as they dissolve quicker at room temperature than granulated sugar does.
Molasses, which gives brown sugar its characteristic color, soft texture, and caramel flavor, attracts water and holds it, yielding a softer, chewier cookie. The higher amount of molasses in dark brown sugar accounts for its deeper flavor and higher acidity. Acid reacts with baking soda, causing cookies to spread as they bake.
Brown-hued turbinado, demerara, and muscovado sugars are all minimally processed cane sugars that retain some natural molasses. Because their crystals are larger than granulated sugar, turbinado and demerara do not dissolve well in doughs and batters. Instead, they are most often used as finishing sugars, sprinkled atop baked goods to lend a pleasant crunch. One of the least processed sugars, dark muscovado adds rich toffee notes to chocolate cake and holds its own against the spices in gingerbread.
So, the next time you reach for sugar to use in a recipe, remember that not all sugar is created equal.
Natural Sweeteners
When it comes to natural sweeteners, you’re not restricted to cane sugars. Here are some other options.
Agave Syrup– Boasting the lowest glycemic index value of all the sweeteners listed here, agave syrup’s source is the spiky succulent called agave, the same plant used to make tequila.
Coconut Sugar – This sweetener is made from the sap of the flower-bud stem of the coconut palm, not from the coconut itself.
Honey – The product of busy honeybees, honey presents diverse flavor profiles, depending on the region where it is collected.
Maple Syrup – Derived from the sap of sugar maple trees, pure maple syrup comes in two grades, A and B; the latter, with its deeper maple flavor, is preferred for baking.
Molasses – After sugar cane is crushed and the juice is boiled to form sugar crystals—which are then removed from the liquid—the thick, dark brown syrup that results is molasses.
Sorghum Syrup – Southern chefs favor sorghum syrup in both sweet and savory recipes for its molasses-like taste, buttery notes, and smoky undertone. The syrup is made from an ancient Old World grass most often cultivated as a grain.
Sugar Cookies Recipe from Chef Teryi Youngblood Musof
Malted Milk Sugar Cookies
From Teryi Youngblood Musolf, executive chef at Camilla Kitchen
Yield: 12–15 large cookies
These cookies, which use three different types of sugar, would make a great addition to any summer picnic.
Ingredients
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- ¾ tsp salt
- 1 tsp baking soda
- ½ cup malted milk powder
- ¾ cup granulated sugar
- ½ cup brown sugar
- 4 ½ oz unsalted butter, melted
- 1 large egg
- ¼ cup turbinado sugar
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350℉.
- Sift together the flour, salt, baking soda, and malt powder. Set aside.
- In the bowl of an eclectic mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, blend granulated and brown sugars and melted butter. Add the egg and mix until combined (no need to cream the mixture).
- Make sure the mixer is on the lowest speed and add the dry ingredients. Mix just until a homogeneous dough is made. Overmixing will result in a hard cookie that doesn’t spread.
- Use a quarter-cup measure to portion dough into 12–15 equal pieces.
- Roll each piece in turbinado sugar and flatten slightly with your hand to make a thick disc. Place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet at least an inch apart. Bake at 350℉ for 8–12 minutes or until lightly browned.
