by Stephanie Burnette
recipes by Chef Shawn Kelly
photography by Forest Clonts
Midday dining seems surmountable with time and quality recipes at hand. We asked Fork and Plough’s Chef Shawn Kelly to jump in on our latest preoccupation: brunch planned around beer. The Overbrook spot has become an epicenter for Greenville’s brunch set and coupling the farm-centered fare with the shenanigans of The Eighth State Brewing Company seemed like a pairing worth writing about.
We asked the chef to work in reverse, first tasting four small batch beers and a seltzer by Eighth State. “I worked to create dishes that I thought would be complimentary and of the season,” he says.
The menu bends classic brunch offerings into a crave-worthy affair, and a rainbow of craft beer alongside them just adds to the fun.
Beer & Brunch
Lazeretto, a citrus orange 5.2% mixed fermentation sour ale, for Tuna Crudo with Deviled Egg Dressing
Tuna crudo is fresh and clean on the palate until the rush of deviled egg and avocado mousse kick in. Lazeretto is a sour fruited with pineapple, guava, lemon, lime, kiwi, apricot, coriander and paradise seeds; its complexity is somewhat obscured by its happy nose, making it an apt first beverage of the day. “The Lazeretto has a great acidity that raw fish just craves,” says Kelly.
Fauconnerie, a deep russet 13.2% American imperial stout, for XL Cinnamon Rolls
Massive scratch-made cinnamon rolls deserve an equally impressive stout. Fauconnerie is a high-ABV peanut butter stout beloved for its coconut notes and buttery goodness, matching the bliss of a frosted cinnamon roll stride-for-stride.
One Day, a pale blue 5.1% raspberry lemonade seltzer, for Pork Belly Biscuit Eggs Benedict
Eggs Benedict gets a farmhouse makeover with biscuits and a slab of pork belly. “The electric blue of the seltzer will cut right through the fattiness of the pork and the hollandaise,” says Kelly. The hard seltzer with its celestial color is made with macerated lemon and its zest, hints of orange and blue curaçao and blue raspberry Kool Aid.
Forgotten, a vibrant fuchsia 5.4% mixed fermentation sour ale, for Yuzu Crème Brulee
Chef calls The Forgotten his favorite beer of the bunch, “It has this wonderful citrus thing going on that will be matched by the yuzu and equally balanced by the creamy custard.”
Drink Craft Beer with Brunch
The Eighth State Brewing Company produces irreverently impressive suds, perfect for the daytime mash-up we call brunch.
A flight at The Eighth State Brewing Company, in the original Claussen Bakery building at 400 Augusta St., may come as a bit of surprise if you’ve never been. Their small batch beer pours in an array of vibrant colors– from green to gold, peach to magenta, blush to amethyst– but their punchy vibe doesn’t belie the craft in what they produce.
“Our goal is to try to be unique but also have some finesse,” says Cameron Owen. “Being raised in the ‘90s, I liked the art that was super bright and florescent so professionally it was about pigmenting but in a natural way, using different kinds of ingredients to do it.”
Available on tap and in bottles and crowlers, many Eighth State offerings are scooped up in limited release, but if you find a favorite there will likely be a fresh spin on it in the near future. “We focus on styles of beer, instead of a specific beer. We work really hard to refine a style but to also change it up so it’s not redundant,” says Owen.
Beer critic, blogger Alex Kidd agreed; he named The Eighth State Brewing Company one of his top three breweries just a year ago, calling the producer “plucky” and their catalog “consistently well done.”
With a profile that’s more than just grain and yeast, we think Eighth State feels more aligned with what you’d want to wake up and drink. Similar to the ubiquitous mimosa, fruited ales and peanut butter stouts are built to compliment the gravy, sauces and frosting of brunch, aka the best meal of the weekend.
Fork & Plough Cinnamon Roll
For the dough:
¾ cup warm milk (110 degrees F)
2 ¼ tsp active yeast
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp molasses or honey
1 egg plus 1 egg yolk, at room temperature
¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
3 cups bread flour, plus more for dusting
3/4 tsp salt
For the filling:
2/3 cup brown sugar
1 ½ Tbsp ground cinnamon
¼ cup butter, softened
For the cream cheese frosting:
4 oz cream cheese, softened
3 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
¾ cup powdered sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract
Warm milk to around 110 degrees. Transfer warm milk to the bowl of an electric mixer and sprinkle yeast on top. Add molasses or honey with the sugar, egg, egg yolk and melted butter. Mix until well combined. Next stir in flour and salt with a wooden spoon until a dough begins to form.
Place dough hook on stand mixer and knead dough on medium speed for 8 minutes. Dough should form into a nice ball and be slightly sticky. If it’s too sticky, add a little more flour.
Transfer dough ball to a well-oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and a warm towel. Place in a warm spot. Allow dough to rise for 1 hour to 1 ½ hours, or until doubled in size.
After dough has doubled in size, transfer dough to a well-floured surface and roll out into a 14×9 inch rectangle. Spread softened butter over dough, leaving a ¼ inch margin at the far side of the dough.
In a small bowl, mix together brown sugar and cinnamon. Use your hands to sprinkle mixture over the buttered dough, then rub the brown sugar mixture into the butter.
Tightly roll dough up, starting from the 9-inch side and place seam side down making sure to seal the edges.
Cut into 1-inch sections with a serrated knife. You should get 9 large pieces.
Place cinnamon rolls in a greased 9×9 inch baking pan or round 9-inch cake pan (I also recommend lining the pan with parchment paper as well, in case any of the filling ends up leaking out). Cover with plastic wrap and a warm towel and let rise again for 30-45 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove plastic wrap and towel and bake cinnamon rolls for 20-25 minutes or until just slightly golden brown on the edges, you want an internal temp of 190 degrees. Allow them to cool for 5-10 minutes before frosting.
To make the frosting:
In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar and vanilla extract. Beat until smooth and fluffy. Spread over cinnamon rolls and serve immediately.
Yuzu Crème Brûlée
6 egg yolks
1/2 cup (100grams) sugar
2 cups heavy cream
For the citrus mixture:
1 cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
3 green tea bags
¼ cup frozen yuzu puree, defrosted (of course fresh can be substituted, if you can find it)
For the garnish:
Supremes of 2 each grapefruit and orange
To make the citrus mixture, bring water and sugar to boil. Remove from heat and add the tea bags. When cool, remove tea bags and add the yuzu puree. Stir to incorporate.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and thick (3-4 minutes). Reserve.
Meanwhile, place the cream in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Add the citrus mixture. When this is hot, slowly pour it over the reserved egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent the yolks from curdling.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (325 degrees if using convection). Place 6-8 ramekins, depending on size, in a deep baking pan. Set aside.
Pour the mixture into a 3-4 cup measuring container, preferably with a spout as it makes it much easier to pour. Pour into the ramekins until about ¼ to ½ inch from the rim. Place the baking pan in the oven and pour enough hot water to reach about halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for about 20-25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool before removing the ramekins from the pan.
Refrigerate until completely cold. When ready to serve, sprinkle each crème brûlée with one tablespoon of sugar and caramelize the tops with a blow torch. Garnish with citrus supremes.
Deviled Egg Dressing
6 cornichons, chopped
1/3 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp chopped drained capers
1 Tbsp whole grain mustard
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
3 hard boiled eggs coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp chopped herbs (such as tarragon and parsley)
Whisk cornichons, oil, vinegar, capers, and mustard in a small bowl to emulsify; season with salt and pepper. Gently mix eggs and herbs into dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
3 pinches salt
Juice of 1 lime
1 small pinch cayenne
Put all ingredients in food processor and blend until smooth. Place in Ziplock bag with all air removed.
Thinly slice super fresh cherry red tuna and place on plate. Spoon room temperature dressing over the tuna. Cut a corner off the piping bag and pipe mousse around the tuna. Finally garnish with sliced radish, chopped cilantro or other little veggies of the season.